Silken Tofu and Edamame Soup (Edamame No Surinagashi)

In a small saucepan, combine the rice, salt, and water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Partially cover, and adjust the heat to allow the mixture to gently bubble for 10 to 12 minutes. The rice will enlarge and release its starch into the water, creating a slightly thick opaque mixture similar to a thin gruel. Add the edamame, then turn off the heat. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Transfer the rice gruel and edamame to a blender. Add the miso and blend until smooth. Add the dashi stock and continue blending to incorporate the liquid well. Taste and add extra miso or dashi if you want a more savory flavor or thinner soup, respectively. Pour through a mesh strainer positioned over a bowl or saucepan; stir to facilitate straining. Discard the solids. Cover and refrigerate up to a day in advance. You should have about 3 cups.

Transfer the rice gruel and edamame to a blender. Add the miso and blend until smooth. Add the dashi stock and continue blending to incorporate the liquid well. Taste and add extra miso or dashi if you want a more savory flavor or thinner soup, respectively. Pour through a mesh strainer positioned over a bowl or saucepan; stir to facilitate straining. Discard the solids. Cover and refrigerate up to a day in advance. You should have about 3 cups.

Place each block of tofu in a shallow soup bowl, then ladle the soup around it. Top the tofu with the garnish of your choice and serve.

 

dashi stock:
If there is a chalky film on the kelp, resist wiping or washing it off because it contains natural glutamates. Put the kombu and water in a saucepan and set aside for 15 to 20 minutes to extract flavor from the seaweed. For greater depth, soak for a few hours or cover and refrigerate overnight.

Heat over medium heat until small bubbles break at the surface and have formed at the sides of the saucepan; some white foam floating on the surface is okay. Remove the saucepan from the heat and scatter in the katsuo-bushi. The flakes will float at the top and then start sinking to the bottom of the saucepan. After waiting 3 to 4 minutes (it is okay if the bonito flakes are still floating on top; don't wait too long or the stock can become overly fishy), remove the kelp and reserve for other purposes. Line a mesh strainer with coffee filter or muslin, then strain the stock.

The stock is ready to use, or you can refrigerate it in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Sediment gathering at the bottom of the storage container is not a sign of spoilage.

Silken Tofu

Choose a large mold or several small molds to steam the soy milk in. Glass or ceramic containers with straight, smooth inner walls work best for unmolding; make sure the mold fits in your steamer tray. If you want easy cooking and storage, and don’t mind if the tofu is served in imperfect shapes and irregular sizes, select a vessel such as a glass loaf pan. For individual servings, use 3 or 4-ounce ramekins. There is no need to oil the mold for silken tofu.

Get a pot of water boiling for steaming. Stir together the gypsum and water to dissolve.

When the water comes to a rolling boil, lower the heat to steady the flow of steam. Give the soy milk a stir and if it is not totally smooth, pass it through a coarse-mesh strainer. Now, combine the soy milk and coagulant liquid, stirring to blend well. Pour into the molds to a depth between 1 and 2 1/2 inches.

Place the molds in the steamer tray and position the lid slightly ajar to minimize the amount of condensation dripping down. Gently steam the soy milk until the tofu has set. The amount of time required depends on the quantity of soy milk and the size of the mold. In general, it takes about 6 minutes to set 1 inch of soy milk. The tofu is done if it jiggles when you shake the mold; if you pick up the mold and slightly tilt it, the tofu may slide around. A toothpick inserted into the center will leave a tiny visible hole on the surface. You may steam the tofu for a few more minutes because the gentle heat will not harm the outcome.

Detach the steamer tray and cool for a few minutes before removing the molds. Cool the molds completely at room temperature. To unmold the tofu with ease, cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours. You can keep the tofu refrigerated for up to 3 days. Let it sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes, then run a knife around the edge (just like a cake) and invert it onto a flat surface. The water that releases as the unmolded tofu sits is the whey.

 

Variation: Citrus-Scented Silken Tofu

When I visited Tokyo to do research for this book, Japanese food expert and author Elizabeth Andoh took me to visit Toshio and Kyoko Kanemoto, the proprietors of her neighborhood tofu shop, Nitto Tofu. Among the couple’s superb offerings was an amazing yuzu-flavored silken tofu. Once I tasted it, I had to recreate it. It turned out to be easy.

Choose an aromatic citrus, such as Meyer lemon, lime, orange, or Buddha’s hand. Grate just the skin, using a Japanese ginger grater, if possible, to obtain the finest texture. For every cup of rich soy milk, use 1/2 teaspoon grated zest (the amount from an average lemon). Stir in the zest before adding the gypsum coagulant. Then steam as directed above.

The citrus oils are spotlighted when the tofu is simply presented. Tester Makiko Tsuzuki enjoyed it as small chunks with a light drizzle of soy sauce.